Is Indian the new Chinese?

Do you remember when Chinese food was exotic? It was one of those special meals to go out for that only the more daring adventurers would undertake. It had that mysterious menu with eerie foreign words like moo goo, kung pao, and lo mein. It slowly started catching on and the friends you knew that had tried it were still alive. Maybe this stuff was OK to eat.

After a few years it became more commonplace and the three places you could go turned into thirty. It became increasingly difficult to pick a favorite one, they all kind of tasted the same. But then the monumental Chinese Revolution happened, and all was well again. This revolution was the advent of the Chinese buffet. They could cook lots of it in advance, it held pretty well and it didn’t really need to be all that good because you had volume and selection on your side. What’s better than a mediocre dish of Hunan Pork? Mediocre egg rolls, hot & sour soup and chicken on a skewer to go with it!

Right now, can you name a good Chinese restaurant? Would you take out of town guests there? Buffet revolution aside, what happened to Chinese food? Did it get commercialized, franchised and turned into a commodity? Did it (d)evolve into “cheap eats” that only allows for so much quality or originality to be added? I can name a couple of decent restaurants, but I don’t plan taking out-of-towners there either.

So, how did this happen? Did our tastes evolve past it, was it no longer “cool or trendy”, did it become a commodity that is only allowed to be prepared uniformly or did our quest for value drive out the true chefs?

Do you remember when Indian food was exotic? It was one of those special meals to go out for that only the more daring adventurers would undertake. It had that mysterious menu with eerie foreign words like tandoor, tikka, naan, aloo and makhani. It slowly started catching on and the friends you knew that had tried it were still alive. Maybe this stuff was OK to eat.

After a few years it became more commonplace and the three places you could go turned into thirty. It became increasingly difficult to pick a favorite one, they all kind of tasted the same. But then the monumental Indian Revolution happened, and all was well again.

So what do you think, does the same fate await Indian food? Have we outgrown it or is it becoming a commodity as well? Leave me message, drop me an e-mail, let me know what you think….

cincyhounddogATgMailDotCom

Review: Not So Slims On Taste and Service

Last Saturday, a group of us got together for dinner at Slims restaurant in Northside. This was my first time, and from my experience, I can definitely say it won’t be the last. I do admit that I was a little surprised at what an “event” it was in terms of a time commitment, but I certainly can’t complain about spending an extended time eating good food with good friends. We arrived at 7:00 and left at 10:15, pleasantly full and fully caught up with our friends.

Even with a prix-fixe (fixed price) menu format, Slims offered a great selection of appetizers, salads and entrees that were fully worth the $42.50 asking price. My wife and I made sure not to order the same of any item so that between us we could sample as much of the menu as possible. Even better, the other three couples were readily generous in offering samples of their entrees.

While reviewing the menu, we were served a small pre-starter of marinated sausage (rather salami-like in texture) over Tuscan toast. Also, we had a large fresh artisan bread sampler on the table for snacking. I settled on the shrimp appetizer (Mofongo pequeno, shrimp, ajili mojili sauce), the mixed green salad with pistachio, blood orange and pomegranate, and roasted Cuban pork as an entrée (lechon asado, Cuban black beans, rice, slaw, plantain crisp).

My wife selected the mushroom appetizer (Mushroom duo, poached egg), a different salad (Mesclun, avocado, papaya, papaya seed dressing) and the Cornish game hen entrée (Cornish Hen, Congri, champ, cranberry hazelnut stuffing, sautéed kale).

The appetizers were both very good. The shrimp were cooked until just tender, not that rubbery texture you often see in starters. Even though it seemed very odd, my wife loved the addition of the poached egg to her dish. Slims grow their own organic salad greens and the taste is fresh and distinctive. They even gave us a small baggie of them to take home at the end of the meal. Between the salad and entree, they even provided us a small serving of grapefruit granita to cleanse our palette.

The pork entrée was very moist and tender. The waiter said that they cook a whole pig each weekend in a la caja china cooker. The accompanying slaw and rice were quite good, but the black beans were a bit on the pasty side and had a somewhat conflicting spice in them that was perhaps anise seed. The decorative plantain crisp was actually quite tasty as well as attractive.

My wife’s Cornish hen was a bit on the dry side, but overall the flavor was very good. It was easy to compensate for the slight dryness with the provided side of mango & black bean salsa. Also on the side was the sautéed kale and some roasted white sweet potatoes, both of which were quite good. Two other entrees we sampled from the table were the imported German hare (rabbit) and the pork belly. The hare was fabulous with no gamey taste whatsoever. The pork belly was glazed and decadent with marbling. It was good to try, but too rich as a main dish for my taste. After dinner, we all had coffee (served with REAL cream) and assorted desserts. We ordered the “Oatmeal sundae Mickey Rooney macaroon McVouty” was just the right size for us to share. I highly recommend this dessert as a great finish to a meal.

Our experience at Slims did not disappoint. The service was excellent, the food very good and the atmosphere funky and fun. Yea, I’m going back, but next time I want that wascally wabbit entrée all to myself.

Review - Brij Mohan

Brij Mohan has some of the finest (all vegetarian) Indian food to be found and exemplifies minimalism at its best. From its place in a simple Sharonville strip center, no table service and to using all disposable containers, plates and utensils; this is the epitome of no-frills dining.



This restaurant (and sweet shop) is very small and crammed to capacity with tables. Even then, there are only 5 “tables for 4” and 2 “tables for 2”. They have daily lunch specials (but closed on
Monday) written on a board behind the counter. For a whopping sum of $4.99 you order from a long list of lunch size entrees, choose your heat level, and choose the type of bread to accompany your meal. Lunch is also served with rice and a small side of lightly spiced onion & carrot salad. One word of caution, I have earned the nickname “asbestos mouth” in some circles, but when I chose “very hot” that is exactly what I got. Trust me, the faint of heart might want to start with “medium hot”. A menu is also available with entrees running from $7 to $10 and a good selection of Indian chaats and appetizers. I’ll save the sweet shop offerings for another review.

Today I ordered a couple of my favorites, the curry kofta and the aloo naan. They take your name upon order, then call it when your food is ready. While waiting, you can help yourself to a Styrofoam cup, napkins and plastic utensils all neatly organized on a small shelf attached to the wall near the counter. There is a bottled water dispenser in front of the sweet case to fill your cup. If your timing is right, there may even be a table for you.

Once seated, it only takes about 5 0r 10 minutes for your name to be called, depending on the crowd. Something magical happens during this time – they are making that food for you! Nothing like fresh potato laced naan from the tandoor. Before I knew it, my name was called and I eagerly walked to the counter to grab my lunch proudly served on a day-glow orange plastic tray. I quickly returned to my table and clicked a picture with my camera phone for your enjoyment.

As always, the meal was piping hot (heat) and contained a great layering of flavors. The curry was just the right consistency, the kofta well formed and tender and the basmati rice perfectly cooked. Best of all was my beloved aloo naan, tender, nicely browned, laced with potatoes and topped with a generous helping of cilantro. As much a possible, I ate Indian style and used my bread as the utensil of choice. Needless to say, my lunch was consumed quite quickly.

Brij Mohan is one of those special gems that stands out from many of the heavily westernized Indian restaurants. Often, I am one of the only non-Indians dining there –looks like the natives know where to find authentic food. But the secret is getting out………. I never thought this confirmed carnivorous canine would ever say such a thing, but I could (almost) become vegetarian if I could eat there everyday.

Jim Dandy's - The BBQ Journey Continues

Let’s face it, Cincinnati just hasn’t made it to BBQ destination status, but real, slow smoked BBQ is actually beginning to take hold. Case in point is Jim Dandy’s Family BBQ on Sharon Road. One of only two “real BBQ” restaurants in the area (I may catch hell for this statement), Jim consistently turns out a good product.

Let me back up here, I can feel the crowd getting angry. By “real BBQ” I mean that the meat is COOKED with wood. Most other places cook with gas and add some flavor with smoldering wood. This is not just my opinion or preference for wood cooked BBQ. In officially sanctioned Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) competitions, any use of gas in the cooking process is an automatic disqualification. OK, OK, you caught me on one point that really is preference based. Using KCBS guidelines, “real” BBQ can be cooked using wood or charcoal. Personally I prefer real wood coals, not charcoal briquettes which often have off-tasting binders in them used to make that nice uniform shape. Using this definition, there really are more than two “real“ BBQ restaurants (ie, like Goodies), but we are still talking a pretty small list compared to the number of places calling themselves barbecue restaurants.

Back to the real purpose of this blog. Jim Dandy’s, in my humble opinion, is one of the better BBQ restaurants in the Cincinnati area. Around his building, you can see stacks of wood and two big offset black steel Klose cookers spreading their smell of slow cooked meat across the lot. This friends is what real BBQ is all about.

The building itself is only about two years old, yet tries for that rustic look by liberal use of natural wood in its construction. Inside, you order from a counter and watch your meal prepared in front of you. Once you choose your meat d’jour, the first question they ask is “what kind of sauce do you want on it?”. While their sauces are good, your response should be “none” – why hide the taste of slow smoked meat? Besides, they have containers at the end of the counter where you can put some on the side, where it really belongs.

The best thing on his menu is probably the BBQ whole/half/quarter chicken. Beautiful darkened exterior and lightly pink smoke ringed inside, this really is a juicy, smoke flavored piece of poultry heaven. They also make a pretty mean pulled pork and rack of ribs (either baby backs or St. Louis cut spares). The meal option comes with two sides. My faves are the mac & cheese, and baked beans. However, many of my friends really like their greens and broccoli / cauliflower salad. Skip the red beans and rice, they don’t hold up well in the steam pan.

Like most restaurants where things are still done “by hand”, some days are a little better than others, but overall, the quality is pretty consistent. Hound Dog gives 4 paws up for Jim Dandy.

Art and Korean - Not a bad Friday night mix

We found ourselves in Covington last night to see an art exhibition for regional high school students and for the awards ceremony later that night at the No. Kentucky Convention Center. (My daughter won a silver key in the painting category). Very fortuitous that Riverside Korean was just 2 doors down from the gallery.

They managed to slip us in without a reservation, so I guess the fates were smiling on us that day. They were very accommodating and our waitress, Brianna, was more than helpful to a few Korean newbies. We decided on sharing a few entrees and appetizers, but I won’t even attempt to write their proper Korean names here. So here are the more Americanized descriptions: pan fried dumplings, veggie pancakes, a HUGE bowl of mixed seafood soup, a spicy tofu / veggie stir fry and an order of grilled spiced chicken. These came with an assortment of Korean condiments such as a soy based dipping sauce, kimchee, pickled radish, spinach, mushroom relish and some kind of caramelized potato cubes. The appetizers and entrees were all quite good, but my personal favorites were the grilled chicken (I am a carnivore you know) and the pan fried dumplings. However, the spicy stir fried tofu was also a big hit.

Overall, while I enjoyed the Korean food, I still prefer Thai, Indian, or Sri Lankan cuisine a bit more. I’m not sure if anything will ever displace Panang Curry as the top Asian meal I dream about.

Next Stop on the BBQ Trail: Barbecue Review

This place has a split BBQ personality. Some things they do really well while for others it’s the old “what were they thinking” reaction. On a positive note, they probably have the best beef brisket in Cincinnati and some pretty good chicken as well. As for sides, the cornbread is always good and some real “come to puppy” mac & cheese.

Now for the schizophrenic side. In my book, the touchstone of a good barbecue restaurant is how well they do pulled pork. This restaurant should refrain from even using those words. “Pork pulp” is the name they should be using. Over-processed, full of sauce (a big watch out!) and just plain old nothing pulled about it. How would you like to see your sandwich being built – with tongs or an ice cream scoop? How can the brisket (the hardest piece of BBQ meat to cook) be so good and the easiest to do well be so bad? Of any advice I could offer them, it is to work on the pulled pork!

The Cincy BBQ Trail - Part One

This is one review I feel good about writing. Why? Because so many reviews are based on visiting a place one, two or on the outside maybe three times. You often have to wonder whether your experience is really representative of the overall restaurant regarding their food and service.

To the feeling good part, I have eaten at Pit to Plate an easy 20 to 25 times. (but who’s counting?) I really think I have a big enough “N” upon which to base this review : ) The highest compliment you can give a restaurant is that of consistency of product. To this end, every meal there has been consistently good. The pulled pork is juicy, the ribs have just that right snap, and those chicken wings – come to puppy.

On a serious note, we aren’t talking 5 star cuisine here, just basic, honest barbecue that very few places can pull off in a consistent manner. BBQ is both science and art and demands attention to many interdependent variables. Apparently Diane has a PhD in both art and science.

As I have said before, there are only two places I know of in the Cincinnati area that produce “real BBQ” (you know, COOKED with wood). This friends is one of them.

Woof!