Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Rising Roll Gourmet

An eternal truism - Hound loves sandwiches. The Cuban, muffaletta, pork tenderloin, French dip, Italian beef, cheese steak and Po Boy are all personal friends of mine. However, as we all know, there are great regional sandwiches, so-so imitations and down right sandwich subterfuge out there. So, is it possible for one place to specialize in many types of sandwiches and pull it off? Here is one chain that tries their hand at several.

The Rising Roll Gourmet opened on Hunt Road in Blue Ash within the last month or so. They also serve breakfast, soups and salads, but I’m here to talk about my dear friends, the sandwiches. The menu divides them into sandwich clans: gourmet, garden, hot and panini. Respectively, examples include California Turkey, Chunky Chicken Salad, French Dip, and Muffaletta. With the first three, you get your choice of bread type: French, multigrain, sourdough, asiago, soft whole white wheat, sun dried tomato wrap, or croissant. The paninis are made on their own special “tandoori bread”. A Naan-wich so to speak.

So there you have an overview of the sandwich landscape. Since panini are dear to my heart, Hound went for the Muffaletta on his first visit and my lunch companion went for the Grilled Italian Beef. (traditionally these are not panini style sandwiches, but who am I to argue with the gourmet sandwich makers?) So what was my friend’s catch phrase to use? Where’s the beef? While the sandwich was good, it was really light on the meat. Big and filling, it relied on carbs instead of protein to satisfy one’s appetite. My Muffaletta had a similar downfall, very little meat and way too little olive salad. The “tandoori bread” on both was not exactly what I would have chosen for a hot pressed sandwich. A little too dense when heated and pressed. Also, the sides that come with the sandwich come in very small plastic containers, about the size a restaurant would use to bring a condiment to your table. The potato salad was good, but it could have been up-sized a little. One more cost saving measure that always annoys me – they personally dole out the napkins at the register and provide only one. Please sir, may I have another?

A panini version of a New Orleans Classic

On my second visit, I chose to avoid “classic regional sandwiches” smashed on tandoori bread and went for the gourmet line. A cold sandwich has its place in the world too! I ordered the Turkey Cheezer –turkey breast, provolone, romaine, tomato and mayo, which I ordered on a croissant. Again, all quality ingredients, but the meat helping was pretty small and the potato salad arrived in the condiment cup. This is around an $8.00 sandwich we’re talking here. Wait, there is music in my head - $5 dollar foot longs ……….

Oui, oui - more meat please


Hound feels that the word “gourmet” is getting a little abused as of late. It has come to mean good bread and /or fresh or unusual toppings. Gourmet to me means that the whole item is well made, delicious and in harmony, not simply dressed up.

So, here are my observations about Rising Roll Gourmet:

A welcome addition to the Blue Ash lunch scene that serves a quality sandwich, though a little on the pricey side

Too much emphasis on the bread itself (rising roll, humm) and not considering the totality of the sandwich

I would rather have traditional sandwiches like Cubans, muffaletta, etc in their original form, not a panini version

Why not use some good quality bread on the paninis instead of that weird tandoori bread (as if it has ever seen a tandoor)

Feel free to make the sides optional, just give me more meat on my sandwich

The Rising Roll Gourmet
4122 Hunt Road, Blue Ash

2 comments:

Kitty said...

I'm glad you reviewed this place--David and I had talked about it.

Anonymous said...

Does anyone in town do a good po boy? It seems that the bread is never ever ever ever even close to what it should be.

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